GLOSSARY | BIRTHSTONES | ANNIVERSARY IDEAS | FACTS |
RING SIZING CHART
GLOSSARY
Baguette
A rectangular-shaped stone (like its namesake!) with rows of step-like facets. A Tapered Baguette is one where the long sides taper inwards.
Band
A type of ring which is an equal width all the way round. They are traditionally used for wedding rings.
Bezel
A bezel setting consists of a rim which holds the stone and completely surrounds the gem. Bezels can have straight edges, scalloped edges, or can be moulded into any shape to accommodate the stone. A watch bezel is the upper part of the case surrounding the dial. They can be set with diamonds or other gemstones.
Blemish
Term used for a scratch or mark on the external area of a diamond.
Brilliance
Brilliance is the sparkle in a stone when light is reflected from the surface and from the total internal reflection of light. Brilliant-cut, this type of cut reflects the most light from within the stone and therefore the stones will have more brilliance than any other cut. Brilliant cuts include the round, heart, oval, marquise and pear shaped.
Cabochon
This style of cut produces a smooth surface with no facets. Shapes include round with high domes to squares.
Carat
1. One of the 4 C's, the carat is the unit of weight of diamonds and gemstones. One carat equals 200 milligrams. One carat can also be divided into 100 points. A .75-carat stone is the same as a 75-point or 3/4-carat stone.
2. Carat is also the term used to describe the purity of gold alloy used in an item of jewellery. Pure gold is rated as 24 carat, and the most common standards of gold alloy used in jewellery are:
- 9ct gold equals 37.5% pure gold
- 14ct gold equals 58.5% pure gold
- 18ct gold equals 75% pure gold
- 22ct gold equals 91.6% pure gold
The carat of gold used in an item of jewellery is illustrated in its hallmark.
Channel Setting
This setting allows the stones to be set right next to each other with no metal between them.
Clarity
One of the 4 C's, diamonds often have natural imperfections, called inclusions. They are found inside the diamond and can be white, black, colourless, or even red or green. Most are undetectable by the human eye. These inclusions are ranked on a scale of perfection called clarity.
Cluster Setting
This setting surrounds a large centre stone with several smaller stones.
Colour
Another of the 4C's, diamonds are graded on a colour scale. This colour scale does not include Fancy Colours, such as pink, blue, green, yellow and red as they are extremely rare.
Crown
This is the upper portion or the top of a diamond.
Culet
The bottom point of the diamond. It may be polished in some stones and left as a point or cut as a surface.
Cushion Cut
A mixed-cut diamond that is shaped like a square pillow.
Cut
One of the 4 C's - cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled craftsman creates in transforming a rough diamond into a polished diamond.
Cutting Style
Cutting styles are different to diamond shapes. The three basic types are: Step-cut, Brilliant-cut and Mixed-cut.
Diamond
A diamond is crystallised carbon and is the hardest known natural substance. Diamonds are mined in their rough form and then cut and polished to reveal their brilliance.
Emerald Cut
A form of step-cutting creating a rectangular or square-shaped cut-cornered diamond. This form of cutting is used to enhance the colour of a diamond or gemstone, rather than its brilliance.
Facet
Any flat polished surface of a diamond or gemstone. The facets are carefully cut to show off the stone's colour, beauty and brilliance.
Fancy Cut
A diamond cut other than round e.g. baguette, emerald, pear, marquise, square, oval, heart, etc.
Flat Top Setting
This setting consists of a band that is one continuous piece which gets thicker at the top. Then a faceted stone can be inserted into the ring at the thickest part. Metal chips keep the stone in place and are attached to the stone's girdle.
Fluorescence
Diamonds show off a whitish, yellowish or bluish tint when exposed to ultraviolet light. This is known as fluorescence. Fluorescence does not come into consideration when grading diamonds.
Gemstone
A natural gemstone is a mineral or an organic object which can be cut, polished or otherwise treated for use in jewellery. A precious gemstone, such as diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald, possess brilliance, beauty, durability and rarity. A semi-precious gemstone, such as quartz and turquoise, possess one or two of these qualities. (See also mineral and organic).
Girdle
This is the outer edge of a cut stone, the dividing line between the crown and the pavilion. The girdle should be in proportion and even to the cut of the stone, and can be polished or unpolished
Gold
A precious metal, yellow in its natural state but its exact colour depends on the amount and type of impurities. It is a very soft and malleable metal and when used in jewellery it is alloyed with other metals to increase its hardness and durability. It is also alloyed into different colours, most notably white gold. The gold used in jewellery is defined by the proportion of pure gold to other metals and is expressed in terms of its carat (see carat).
Gypsy Setting
Used mostly in men's jewellery, the band is a continuous piece that gets thicker at the top. A stone is inserted into the middle of the dome-shaped top.
Hallmark
This is the authorised stamp from an assay office which is found on items of gold, silver and platinum. The hallmark indicates the authenticity and standard of the precious metal and is awarded after independent tests by the official assay offices at London, Birmingham, Sheffield or Edinburgh. The hall mark for 9 ct gold is 375; for 18 ct gold it is 750. For sterling silver, the hall mark is 925 and for platinum, it is 950.
Inclusion
In order to grade the clarity of a diamond, inclusions must be identified. Professionals will look for bubbles, crystals, carbon spots, feathers, clouds, pinpoints, or other impurities, or even cracks and abrasions.
Illusion Setting
This setting surrounds the stone making it appear larger.
Iridescence
This is the lustrous rainbow effect that can be seen on some gemstones when they are held up to the light. It is commonly seen in opals and mother-of pearl.
Lustre
The hue and depth of reflection from pearls, opals or other opaque stones.
Marquise Shape
This cut creates a stone that is double-pointed or boat-shaped and long and thin with gently curved sides coming to a point on either end. Mixed-cut -- This cut has both step-cut and brilliant-cut facets. Mixed cuts combine the beauty of the emerald cut with the sparkle of the brilliant cut..
Matte Finish
A frosted, non-shiny surface effect featured on jewellery.
Mohs Scale ( A scale showing the hardness of minerals)
10 Gemstone,
Diamond
9
Ruby, Sapphire
8
Topaz,
Garnet,
Aquamarine
7.5
Emerald
7
Amethyst
6
Opal
Turquoise
3
Onyx
Pearl
Mele
Small, usually round diamonds less than .10 carats in size.
Pave
A type of setting where a number of small stones are set together. It literally means paved with diamonds.
Pavillion
Bottom portion of a stone, under the girdle, measuring to the culet.
Pear Shape
As the name implies, a stone whose outline resembles a pear shape.
Pinpoint
A type of inclusion inside a diamond. A mass of pinpoints is called a cluster (a dot) or cloud (a hazy area).
Platinum
Of the three precious metals, platinum is the rarest and most valuable. It is silvery-grey to white in colour and, unlike silver it does not tarnish when exposed to the atmosphere. It is slightly more dense than gold and about twice as dense as silver. To make it easier to use, the platinum used in jewellery is an alloy containing 95% pure platinum and 5% other metals (or 950 parts platinum to 50 parts other metals).
Princess Cut
A square or sometimes rectangular-shaped stone.
Prong or Claw Setting
Four or six claws (the actual metal tip or bead that touches the stone) hold the stone in place.
Radiant
A rectangular or square shaped diamond with step-cut and scissor-cut on the crown, and a brilliant-cut on the pavilion.
Rhodium
A white metallic element. A rhodium finish is usually applied to white gold to give it greater and brighter whiteness.
Rose Gold
An alloy of gold and copper, which gives the gold a reddish colour.
Satin Finish
A textured finish on the surface of precious metal which has a soft lustre rather than a shine.
Shank
The round body of a ring that encircles the finger.
Silver
A precious metal with a characteristic silver / white colour and a metallic lustre.
Simulated
Artificial gemstones used to simulate natural gemstones in order to make more affordable jewellery, for example simulated pearls.
Solitaire
A single diamond or stone set by itself in a mounting.
Step Cut
This creates rows of facets that resemble the steps of a staircase. The emerald cut and the baguette are examples of the step cut.
Sterling Silver - a high quality alloy of silver used in jewellery. It contains a minimum of 92.5% pure silver (or 925 parts pure silver to 75 parts other metals).
Synthetic
A manmade gemstone that has the same physical, optical gemstone and chemical properties of its natural counterpart. They are often very bright in colour and very clear.
Table
The top surface of a cut diamond or gemstone. This is the largest facet.
Trillion Shape
This is a triangular-shaped diamond with 50 facets. They are usually used as side-stones.
White Gold
An alloy of yellow gold that has been bleached using silver, zinc or platinum as a whitening agent. It is rhodium-plated to give extra whiteness and shine.
FACTS
ETHICAL CONSIDERATIONS
At Wilsons we endeavour to provide products that have been fairly traded and have come from legitimate and well-established sources. We have not and will not sell products that have been obtained through dubious and unscrupulous means. We will continue to look into ways that we can further ensure that our products are fairly traded and ethically sound in this continuously changing world in which we live.
CONFLICT-FREE DIAMONDS - A BRIEF EXPLANATION
Who would believe that the beautiful diamond has a sinister past and has generated so much controversy, ongoing at the moment? At Wilsons, we are proud to say that all our suppliers use certified conflict-free diamonds.
The World Diamond Council defines conflict diamonds as Diamonds that originate from areas controlled by forces or factions opposed to legitimate and internationally recognized governments, and are used to fund military action in opposition to those governments, or in contravention of the decisions of the United Nations Security Council.
The brutal conflict in Sierra Leone in the late 1990s brought conflict diamonds to the fore front. Africa has seen many conflicts of the years, but in recent times, these conflicts resulted in rebels controlling the country's resources. The rebels trade these resources for arms and influence, which was how diamonds came into the fold.
The Kimberley Process was created in 2000 after the industry, as well as the U.N and the world's governments recognized the need to stop the illicit trade of diamonds to finance conflict. By 2002, 52 governments had signed up and adopted the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme. Currently, 71 governments are committed to the process.
The World Diamond Council was created in 2000 to address the issue of conflict diamonds on behalf of the diamond industry. The global diamond industry announced its 'zero tolerance' policy on conflict diamonds and stated that it would not trade with any business whose diamonds were not compliant with the Kimberley Process.
The Kimberley Process prevents conflict diamonds from entering the legitimate diamond supply chain through a certification system. Rough diamonds must be accompanied by a government-issued certificate when exported or imported. Only the 71 countries that are part of the Kimberley Process are allowed to import or export rough diamonds.
99% of diamond production is covered by the Kimberley process.
The diamond does a lot of good for those involved. The diamond trade contributes approximately US$8.4 billion a year to Africa and helps to transform the lives of the people. This benefit it not only financial - clinics, schools, HIV testing and counseling as well as much needed employment are all created as a result of this precious stone. Diamonds cannot bring peace to countries that have experienced war and bloodshed. They can however, through their trade, help to re-build the infrastructure and lives that were torn apart in those troubled times.
For more information on Conflict Diamonds and how you can make a difference, visit
www.amnesty.org
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